Larch Hunting & Enchantments Thru Hike

Into the darkness

Decided to thru hike the Enchantments in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness to catch the changing of the Larches.  For the past several years I was luckily enough to be in a group who got a Core Enchantments backpacking permit and this year a Snow Lakes backpacking permit, but I really wanted to see the fall colors.  With the weather turning and snow on the way for this high elevation area, this week the sun came out and this was my chance.  Thru hiking the enchantments is rough at best and with my summer of adventures as my base I knew that I could handle the difficulty of the hike.  I booked the Loop Connector shuttle, which I highly recommend, as the only other way would be to hike the additional 8 miles from trailhead to trailhead or find someone else to go and drive 2 separate cars all the way to Leavenworth; I did see people riding their bikes back too.  Jordan, owner and operator, of Loop Connector picked myself and a trail runner up at 5am from the Snow Lakes trailhead and drove us up to Colchuck trailhead.  I would start my thru hike at 5:30am in the dark.  The trail runner took off and I was solo, with my headlamp to light the path, I would hike in the dark until sunrise.  I made great time up to Colchuck Lake, getting there at 7:15.

Colchuck Lake with Dragontail Peak

My goal was to get to the top of Aasgard Pass by 10am, so getting to Colchuck Lake early helped.  I started up Aasgard Pass around 7:45 and would be standing on the top of the pass 9:10am.  The more time I could shave off I wouldn't have to be walking the long switchbacks back to the car in the dark later in the day.

First Larches at Colchuck Lake

Larches against Dragontail Peak

Larches while ascending Aasgard Pass

Top of Aasgard Pass

The hike up to the top of Aasgard is grueling, it rises 1900 feet in less than a mile.  But once one reaches the top of Aasgard Pass at 7800 ft of elevation, you're now in the Upper Enchantments and it truly is "enchanting".  There was a light dusting of snow and everything was brilliantly white.  The occasional Larches in their bright yellow popped out everywhere.

Follow the cairns or "rock piles" to your destination.

As I made my way through the Upper Enchantments and down to Inspiration Lake, Larches galore!!

Inspiration Lake

Trail right along the side of Inspiration Lake

I really liked the slant of this larch set against Enchantment Peak

Larches and Prusik Peak

Can you see the trail in this photo of the Larches and Prusik Peak?

Leprechaun Lake

Leprechaun Lake. McClellan Peak behind

Perfection Lake

In August when I was here I jumped in and swam to that little island, not today

Runoff from Sprite Lake. Prusik Peak behind

Larches, larches, larches...and Prusik Peak

Reflections 

Lake Vivian

Upper Snow Lake. Drained from the spillway

Log Jam

I would make it back to the car at Snow Lakes trailhead at 3:30, exactly 10 hours after I started.  I would hike just shy of 20 miles according to my GPS Garmin.

The Enchantments are Truly Enchanting

It's not every year that you get to backpack the Enchantments just outside Leavenworth, WA...unless you're friends with Kristie who somehow manages to win wilderness lottery permits like she's ordering an Americano at the local coffee shop.

This year she won the Snow Lakes permit and off we went, myself, my wife Kristina, Kristie, Erica, Ali, Collin, Ben and Robin.  We'd made a plan to hike the 7 miles from the trailhead to Upper Snow Lake the first day of our entry, this way we'd be able to make basecamp and spend the rest of our time day hiking up into the core of the Enchantments.  We had reserved a VRBO just outside of Leavenworth the night before and our plan was to be up and out of there by 9am, breakfast and last minute supplies/food in Leavenworth, then on to the trailhead by 12pm.  That morning we actually pulled out of the driveway at 9am (this is always a miracle for us) and headed to Leavenworth for breakfast and to stop by the Cheesemonger store.  Why we were buying more food???  No one knew but we weren't going without on this trip.  Collin had set the bar quite high last year earning the name "Snackson", no one was going to be left out this year...we'd all brought delicious gourmet food, cheese, meats and booze... along with the normal sodium packed dehydrated meals.

Collin's food: "I just need to grab a couple last minute things"

Erica's pack needed a little adjusting so she could put her head back

After our stop at the Cheesemonger store, in which we all added 5 lbs more of food to our packs, we headed up Icicle River Road to Snow Lakes Trailhead, we'd get there at 11:30 and start our hike into the wilderness at 12pm.  I'd have a 53 lb pack on to start the trip.

The bridge at the trailhead: All loaded down

The first 2.5 miles of the trail are switchbacks through an old burned forest.  There's not a lot of shade or cover during this part and luckily the weather was cool, a balmy 78 degrees.  There'd be 6 of us to start today, with Ben and Robin to follow tomorrow.  We fell into 2 groups with Couch to Summit Collin leading the way with his longs legs, Kristie and Ali in tow.  Leaving Erica, Kristina and myself pulling up the caboose.  That's the great thing about hiking with others is we all find our pace, what works for you.  In the back, Erica, Kristina and I slowly trudged along to attempt to conserve energy but taking less breaks, the other three powered up the hills but would stop frequently to take in the scenery and rest.

One of many dusty, exposed switchbacks

Entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Our first break would be 2.5 miles by a beautiful rushing stream and some nice cool shade.  We'd take the heavy loads off our backs, filter water and enjoy a moment to relax.  We were making great time.  I had figured we'd be going 1 mph with our packs on and get to camp some where around 7pm.  We were ahead of pace and everyone was doing fine.

All smiles from Ali

Filling up the Lifestraw bottle (Erica)

Collin and Erica enjoying some time without their packs

Peaceful shady stream

We'd spend about 15 minutes in the cool shade, then head up the trail some more.  We'd reach our first boulder field at 4 miles then next would be Nada lake at 5.5 miles...AHHH break number two.  We were 1.5 miles from Upper Snow Lake...take the beast of a pack off for a moment...what a relief. 

Couch to Summit Collin taking a break

All smiles with a Snow Lakes Wilderness permit in hand (Kristie)

From Nada Lake to Lower Snow Lake it seems like it's straight up through boulder field number two then one gains the crest and you're only 200 more vertical feet on nice soft tread.  Just passed this you're rewarded with a downhill for 1/4 mile to the Snow Lakes dam.

Kristina and I about at the crest of the 2nd boulder field (Nada Lake down below)

Nada Lake

The year before we'd have to take our shoes off and walk across this dam in bare feet as it had about 3-4 inches of ice cold mountain water spilling over, this year the water is super low and we'd walk across with no problems; I’d guess the water level is 40 feet lower.

Snow Lakes Dam

All the logs behind the dam

Spillway from Upper Snow Lakes and the reason the water gets so low

From the dam crossing we'd take a gentle walk along Upper Snow Lake to find our campsite from last year is open, but still a ways from the water, we decided to set up camp on the sandy beach outside of the trees right next to a granite drop off; it was 6:30pm and this was home for the next 3 nights.

Basecamp

Basecamp for the next 3 days

Chores are rough after 8 miles (what my GPS Garmin clocked the mileage) and 4500 feet of elevation gain with a 50+ pack on.

First up...

a celebratory shot of whiskey

pitch the tent

inflate the pads

pillows

sleeping bags

filter water

think about making dinner

drink a hot toddy by Ali

snack on food

think about making dinner...

wait it’s cold so time to layer up

thermals, fleece, puffy, stocking hat...

now maybe actually make dinner

snack on the heavy log of summer sausage and the two bricks of cheese.

Everyone is just giving all this heavy food shit away to lighten the load

"please eat, please eat"

Most importantly though

enjoy the company

laugh

 talk about how amazing it is to be back.

One of the many camp chores, filtering water (Collin)

Night chores consist of trying to prevent critters and “doubtful” bears to eat your food.  Pack it all back in the bear can, sleep with be dehydrated meals, and button everything down for the morning dew so it doesn’t get wet.  Kristina and I crawl in the tent at hiker midnight (9pm) and strip all the layers off.  It’s been a long day, but it’s been amazing.  To do things like this and to see things like this take effort; we all put that in today.  We’re here, tomorrow we explore more. 

Day 2

The night was chilly, but it was a good nights sleep.  I'm wide awake at 6am, nature's calling and I make my way to the luxurious bathroom facilities that's about 200 yards back down the trail from camp.

Rated a 3.5 star out of 10 for the "tilt" backwards that made one think they'd have this toilet on top of them

I make my way back to camp and make that first glorious cup of coffee with baileys and watch the tips of the surrounding peaks turn pink then bright from the granite and the sun. 

Calm water on Upper Snow Lake acts like a mirror

Some sun to warm the soul

Kristina is all smiles and sunny

Breakfast, warmth, sun...all good things.  Everyone would 1 by 1 slowly crawl out of their tents and prepare for a day hike up into the Core Enchantments.  With everyone fed and warm we left camp at 12pm.  We'd only hike 3-4 miles in, but we'd gain a lot of elevation, navigate granite slopes and crawl our way up steep root embankments.

Kristie, Collin, Ali, Kristina and Erica

Slow and steady we reached Lake Vivian at 2:15pm which is the first high mountain lake of the Core Enchantments

Lake Vivian

Kristie, Kristina, Collin, myself, Ali and Erica

Ali, Kristina and Kristie enjoying the views and sun at Lake Vivian

Lake Vivian: Collin drinking a backcountry beer, Kristie, Kristina and Ali soaking their feet

Erica enjoying Lake Vivian

We'd all take an extended break at Lake Vivian to enjoy the mountain goats and snack; the goats would be bleating right next to us as they crawled on the rocks... they were not afraid.

Momma Mt. Goat and baby

Kristina would  stay at Lake Vivian to soak up the sun and rest her legs.  The rest of us continued up to Leprechaun Lake; just past Leprechaun there’s this amazing waterfall/shoot of water coming down nature’s granite slip and slide.  Here we could see small rainbow trout, the American Dipper played and ate, dipping on the rocks looking content, Erica would stay here taking pictures as the rest of us continued up to Sprite Lake and Perfection Lake. 

Standing next to God's granite water slide though the Core Enchantments (Kristie, Erica, myself)

Myself, Kristie Ali and Collin at the waterfall outlet of Perfection Lake (behind us is Little Annapurna)

Collin and I playing frisbee in high alpine beauty

We continued up to Perfection Lake with plans to turn around at 4pm and head back down.  Here Kristie and I would strip and jump in the cold water.  It was refreshing and brisk.

Jumped in Perfection Lake last year, had to do it again.

Sun's out, buns out

It was 4:15 and it was time to head back down the trail, we'd met up with Erica at Leprechaun Lake; make our way down the rebar granite ledge to Lake Vivian where Kristina was waiting. 

Rebar has been installed here as the fall off this granite ledge would be terrible (campsite and Upper Snow Lake below)

Choo-Choo train of hikers back to camp (Erica, Kristie, Collin, Ali and Kristina)

All Smiles from Kristie and I (in our element)

We'd head down the trail from Lake Vivian at 5pm we’d make it back to camp at 6:30.  Time for a beverage and snacks and low and behold 30 minutes later our last two of our group would hike into camp and now we were 8.  Ben and Robin with their sleek ultra light gear prepping to thru-hike the PCT next year.  We’d all gather for dinner on the rocky cliff, chat, laugh, catch up, laugh some more and watch the Milky Way pop out before our eyes. 

Kristina and I would head to bed just past hiker midnight again tonight with Erica and Ali soon to follow.  Ben, Robin, Collin and Kristie would stay up giggling and talking for another hour or so.  A wind storm would blow in at midnight and it was amazing to listen to the gusts push through the upper canyons, you’d hear the gusts and then 5-6 seconds later your tent would flap in the wind; an hour later it would calm down and all would be still; day 2 had come to an end. 

Day 3

I was up at 5 am to make the walk to the outdoor throne but was fortunate to crawl back in the tent and catch a cat nap until 8am.  A quick breakfast as Kristina enjoyed the morning sunrise reading a book at camp. 

Ben, Robin, Ali and I would head back up into the Core Enchantments again today.  We left at 11:20am and retraced our steps from the previous day but it’s always nice to see others faces when you take them through areas like the upper Alpine Lake Wilderness.  There were more people on the trail today due to the holiday weekend, but still quiet.  We’d make it to Lake Vivian for a short break at 1:30 and head up past Leprechaun Lake for a extended break to soak the feet at Perfection Lake.  No jumping in the water for me this day.

Ali soaking up the sun by an amazing slot canyon waterfall

Making our way up the granite slopes again

Ali, Ben, Robin and I enjoying Perfection Lake

YAY OUTSIDE!! (Ali)

At the outlet for Sprite Lake (Ali)

After about 45 minutes we’d start the trek down. Ali and I doing jumping squats just to mess around as we took breaks on our way back down the granite slabs and the endless roots. We’d make it back to camp where the rest of our camp mates stayed for the day for another night of drinks and tried to eat as much food as possible before heading out the next day. 

Shenanigans back at camp (Kristie and Erica)

Eat all the food!!

Cigars and Views (Ben)

Collin enjoying nature

Enjoying camp, food and booze and relaxation

Ben and Robin see something???  Collin farts???

Kristina and I are all smiles on the last night of the trip

Last sunset over Upper Snow Lake

Day 4

Morning would come and it was time to pack everything up to head back down the trail.  These days are always the hardest for me, all the beauty, fun and enjoyment are over and the impending dread of having to head back to reality set in.  

Camp finally packed and we started back down the trail at 10am.  All our packs we slightly lighter, mine now a cool 40 lbs, we'd make great time back to the trailhead arriving at 2pm.  A quick change out of the dusty clothes we were headed to Leavenworth for poutine fries, nachos, pretzels and beer at this amazing place called The Loft (because we didn't eat enough in the wilderness).  We'd stroll down main street Leavenworth and grab gelato for one last stuffing before heading home.

The fun was over... back to reality.  It was an amazing trip with truly wonderful people...ready for the next adventure.