Day 61: Goodale Pass to PCT

June 19, Day 61: 886.0-891.7

Miles Hiked: PCT 5.7 Goodale Pass out of VVR 11.5 total miles hiker 17.2

Gratitude of the Day: I’m thankful that I feel I’m becoming a stronger hiker. The last week I feel that I’ve done well keeping up, my body feels healthy and overall my legs and feet are in great shape. 

I woke up this morning at 6:30 at Vermilion Valley Resort for the last day. I packed my pack and got a breakfast burrito before finally heading back to trail at 9:15. The whole group of the Salty Butt Bandits left together and we’ve picked up some other hikers to add to the group: Huck and Pony Boy are now staples, Huck’s friend is hiking a section with him, Creekie and a new hiker who’s been with some of the SSB before VVR Stretch, also Sam and Hannah. So we’ve gone from a large trail family to even larger. It’s not bad though, everyone still hiked at their own pace. Meeting up for breaks and lunch’s are cool because there’s a big group of people to chat with. Heading out of VVR, we decided to take a longer alternate route back to the PCT, we’d technically miss around 8 PCT miles but really we’d be walking the same distance, we just would be shaving off some elevation by not going over Silver Pass but instead going over Goodale Pass.

The alternate trail started out ok but them started to climb as we walked thru a recent burn section of forest. These sections always seem eerie, walking thru a ghost forest, but if you look for it you can see the forest coming back. Small green plants and snow flower here and there.  After the burn the trail mellowed out some and we walked back into a live forest and small streams we needed to rock hop to get across. By 2 the group was eating lunch and snacks on top of the pass. 

Once we joined back up the the PCT it was just under 6 miles to our intended camp spot at Lake Virginia.   Most of the group arrived at this picturesque lake by 5:30 and started setting up camp. After I got my tent set up I immediately walked to the shore of the lake, stripped to my underwear and jumped in. The water was cold but refreshing. The wind was a little breezy but this kept the mosquitoes at bay and the help of deet I’m sure helped. We all grabbed our bear can’s and had a dinner circle. A brave single hiker came to camp set up his tent and made his way to the circle. No one seemed to acknowledge him do I spoke up and asked him his name. You would have though I’d given him something special by talking to him, but his first words out of his mouth was “You’re the first person in a week and a half to ask me my name” his trail name is Joker. He seemed very nice and I’m glad I spoke up and didn’t just ignore the new guy. I think it takes guts to walk up to a big group like ours and try to engage.

Virginia Lake

After dinner the wind calmed and the mosquitoes got bad, so we retreated to our tents.  I’m laying in mine with the vestibule open so I can watch the sunset over the lake and the peaks above the lake. The frogs are in full force and I can hear the fish jumping in the lake getting late night dinners, hopefully eating mosquitoes. 

Biggie cleans her shoes

Day 59: VVR hiker oasis

June 17, Day 59: 866.0-874.5

Miles Hiked: 8.5 PCT miles, 8.5 miles to VVR

Gratitude of the Day: I’m thankful for tiny oasis’s that cater to specific groups. Vermilion Valley Resort is just that place. 

This morning I didn’t want to get out of my tent, everyone else was packing up and I could see the swarm of mosquitoes outside the tent. So I packed as much as I could in my tent and then took the plunge. This morning was another beautiful morning but the cloud of blood suckers that followed me down trail made it near impossible to enjoy and stop to “smell the roses”.  At mid morning I had to cross another larger stream, Baewatch, Col. Sanders and Catch all did the “rock hop method”, I chose to just take the shoes and socks off and wade across barefoot so my shoes and socks wouldn’t get soaked. 

The rest of the morning was kind of a blur as I did my best to out run the cloud of blood suckers. Even with Deet and a bug shirt they were so obnoxious, like a psychological torture test with their incessant buzzing. Finally after 8.5 miles I reached the cut off to Vermilion Valley Resort, this trail too was 8.5 mile… only half done with the day but my legs were so tired from all the past days passes. At 2pm I finally reached VVR, the lake that usually had a ferry to whisk thru hikers to the resort wasn’t running and it was evident why, the lake is basically nonexistent, its so low. 

Once I arrived, it was a free beer, I ordered a burger and enjoyed the company of the other hikers. Then it was shower and laundry time which was absolutely amazing. The staff at VVR are amazing and so accommodating to hikers. The rest of the day consisted of just hanging out with Knee Deep, Bang, Motorcycle Momma, and Anchor.  Then it’s a “late” night to bed at 11:30. The Salty Butt Bandits are all streaming in and tomorrow morning everyone should be here. Then it’ll be some rest for everyone before we head back up the mountains to Red Meadows and Mammoth. 

Day 58: Selden Pass

June 16, Day 58: 845.4-866.0

Miles Hiked: 20.6

Gratitude of the Day: I’m thankful for my “adventure buddy” friends. Those friends that when I approach them with some fun or crazy plan and they immediately say “I’m in”

Selden Pass

I started stirring at 5:20 am but wished I could sleep longer. I lingered around camp making breakfast and hot chocolate and slowly packing up my bag. Finally at 6:30 I told Clancy I’d see him down the trail (I wouldn’t) and started my day off with a 12 mile downhill. This morning the trail was soft dirt/duff as I made my way to the “big” river crossing. I’m a normal PCT year with snow in the Sierra fording Evolution Creek is fear inducing and sometimes requires hikers for hike 1-2 miles upstream along the bank to find a spot to cross that’s only waist deep. This year, I took my shoes and socks off and crossing the 20 foot section with the water gently lapping at my knees. The cool water felt refreshing on the legs, unfortunately on the other side was a swarm of mosquitoes ready to eat is alive. Many of us wear a mosquito headset, I have a mosquito shirt but don’t much like wearing it. I bought deet bug spray because usually I get eaten alive and I’ve noticed that for the most part the mosquitoes around me are more of a “gnat type” nuisance.  At Evolution creek Catch (Lauren) caught up with me and we hike at similar paces, for the first time in 58 days I hiked with someone for the majority of the day. 

After the river crossing, I followed several waterfalls and hiked out of Kings Canyon National Park crossed a bridge and found myself now in the John Muir Wilderness of the Sierra National Forest.  The day was walking in and out of large western ciders that I’d have to crane my neck skyward just to glimpse how big they were, makes one feel insignificant knowing how old these trees must be. The nice thing about walking amongst these giants is usually the trail is soft and had a small layer of pine needles which makes for easier walking. 

The downhill ended at the Muir Trail Ranch cutoff, and then it was the start of a new uphill and pass. 8 miles of switchbacks, beautiful alpine lakes (Sallie Keys and Heart Lake), and streams guided Catch and I up the 3200 feet and for me at mile 20 for the day I created the top of Selden pass and got yet another spectacular view, this one of Marie Lake.  The rest of the Ambassador crew were camped just down the trail a mile and Catch and I would join them. 

The granite camp spot boasted spectacular views of Marie Lake but the mosquitoes were still out in force. I put in my gortex rainjacket, pants and reapplied deet to my bald head and hands. Everyone else took similar measures. At one point Baewatch had so many mosquitoes on him it was comical, they couldn’t bite him because of all his gear but even so they are a pester. Sunset tonight was a watercolor of pink clouds with mountains in the background with lake Marie taking on some pink tones with its vibrant blue. Overall a beautiful setting minus the blood suckers. Tomorrow I’ll make it into Vermilion Valley Resort for a small resupply, hopefully an ice cold coke and beer and perhaps a shower. 

Day 57: Iconic Muir Hut

June 15, Day 57: 827.4-845.4

Miles Hiked: 18

Gratitude of the Day:  I’m thankful to have arrived at Muir Hut. It’s been a dream long coming and I was never sure I’d ever be able to see it. 

Muir Pass

What a wonderful night of sleep. The waterfall right next to camp was like a “white noise” effect and I slept so well thru the night. I heard camp rustling bright and early, but I didn’t want to start out just yet, plus Clancy and Navi had made it to camp last night and we’d said we’d leave camp around 6:30-7am. I finally left camp and headed up the trail at 7:15 as they were packing their bags thinking they’d catch me soon and we’d hike up Muir Pass together, 11 miles from camp. Instead like most days, I hiked alone but what a day it was!

The morning I hiked thru the greenest of meadows with sheer granite walls on either side, picturesque is the best I can describe the gentle flowing stream and the buck deer grazing in the meadow, it’s like it was meant to be in a film. Then we started to gain some elevation but it wasn’t bad because I walked by waterfall after waterfall then the terrain would level out and I’d be in another peaceful meadow. This went on for miles, if it wasn’t a waterfall or a meadow that I’d come to it would be the most vibrant blue alpine lake, looking so inviting but the little bit of snow around the shores told me the water was freezing cold. Multiple breaks at these places just enjoying the beauty and the view back down trail showed an expansive valley I’d just climbed out of. 

Finally around 2pm I rounded a switchback and I could see the iconic Muir Hut that sits at the top of the pass as an emergency shelter at 11,969 feet. This hut is amazing, built in 1931, it has withstood driving winds and mounds of snow fall. Today it was basking in a sunny day with a slight breeze. 

 

I had lunch here with several hikers and soon Clancy would join me followed by Navi and Pony Boy. All total I spent 2 hours on top of the Pass enjoying the hut and the beautiful views. 

At 4 I decided to start down into the valley below, following the head of Evolution Creek, passing Wanda Lake right on the shore then dropping down and having dinner at Sapphire Lake, aptly named. Deeper into the valley the granite peaks on either side framed Evolution Lake like an Ansel Adam’s photo, I’d walk another mile to camp where Clancy and I are staying for the night. The sunset lit the valley below us and we watched the changing colors explode on the peaks around us. Navi and Pony Boy are a couple miles behind and the rest of the Salty Butt Bandits are around 11 miles behind. Clancy and I have decided to push the next two days to get into Vermilion Valley Resort a day ahead of the crew and take a proper zero there as we wait for them to catch up. 

Day 56: Mather Pass

June 14, Day 56: 811.3-827.4

Miles Hiked: 16.1

Gratitude of the Day: I’m thankful for my nephew Brentyn. He’s an amazing young man and I’m proud of the way he’s turning out. 

Mather Pass

What a fitful night of sleep. For some reason I was either too hot or too cold and couldn’t get comfortable. Even so I got some sleep last night and woke at 5:30 to start my day. I drank some hot chocolate as I packed up and was on the trail by 6:15. After about an hour a group of hikers (Otter, Anchor, Baewatch and Col. Sanders) stopped to have breakfast, but the mosquitoes were awake too and we were swarmed almost instantly. Let me tell you, it’s literally a pain in the ass to try to poop in the woods while little blood sucking bastards bite your ass. 

So we all pushed forward for the goal today, getting up and over Mather pass.  The approach to the pass was one of walking through boulder meadows with babbling brooks running through them. As we approached the pass it was switchbacks near vertical that went back and forth until I reached the 12,094 foot pass. Here I sat with other hikers and ate a snack free of mosquitoes and enjoyed the view of the Palisade Lakes I’d soon be passing later in the day.

The beauty of going over a pass is that it give you access to a completely new valley that not many people can get in to. By 12:30 I was taking a break and soaking my feet in the crystal clear waters of the lake and basking in the afternoon sun. As much as I wanted to stay and enjoy the lake the rest of the day, I still needed to hike down the valley to set myself up for tomorrow’s pass, Muir Pass. So I followed the trail downward as it followed Palisade Creek until I came to La Conte Canyon where I camped for the night. 

Day 55: Plop, plop, sploosh Bear oh my.

June 13, Day 55:  793.5-811.3

Miles Hiked: 17.8

Gratitude of the Day: I’m thankful for my tent today, the mosquitoes are out in full force here in the Sierra, even a small 5 minute break you get swarmed. Tonight my tent is a refuge. 

Pinchot Pass

I woke up today at Rae Lakes and it was a lazy morning. Maverick was already up flying fishing and I joined Dunk and Baewatch for breakfast on the granite slab. Today was a very indecisive day for the group. Some wanted to stay and spend a good portion of the day at the lake lounging and swimming, then do a 20 mile day the next day to get over Pinchot and Mather pass, others wanted to get over Pinchot pass as to not have to do two passes in one day… I was in the later group. As always with thru hiking, the adage of hike your hike applies. So I had a late start to the day but I was packed and hiking out of camp at 9:30 am. The morning consisted of downhill passing one magnificently blue lake after another. By 12:30 I was at this amazing suspension bridge over Woods Creek where I intended to eat lunch, but nature had other plans, I would see my first bear on trail right at the bridge. There were several hikers already there eating lunch and I’m sure the bear was just sniffing around to see what was good. Several of us hikers shooed the bear away but I decided to walk a little further before breaking out the stove and eating salami. As it happens I walked across the suspension bridge and right past mile 800!  

Then it was lunch at the famous “water slide” on trail, this flat granite waterfall that looks like it could be fun but it’s very dangerous, so look but don’t touch. 

After lunch it would be a 7 mile incredibly long slog to crest over Pinchot Pass at 12,122 feet. Multiple small creek crossing that would require me to rock hop to keep my shoes and socks from getting soaked. I’d like to say I succeeded, but eventually one of the rocks was not so secure and bloop… both of my feet were soaked… damn!  Luckily today was a sunny day and this happened fairly early in the afternoon so my shoes and socks could dry out as I hiked. Finally at 5:30pm I reached the top of Pinchot Pass and looked down into the next valley below, again pristine blue lakes awaited me. 

My goal after getting over Pinchot pass was to make to the valley below the lakes for two reasons, one to set me up for Mather Pass tomorrow and two to stay a little warmer at a lower elevation. So I skipped amazing camp spots at these lakes to achieve these goals. As it happens right before camp there was another two stream crossings. The first one a mile from camp had some fairy large boulders to hop from one to the next, with the last one being kind of a small leap, I jumped to that Boulder and…“plop”! Oh shit! My phone came out of my backpack front pocket, landed on the boulder I had just hopped to and then slid down and went into the water…. Shit!  Luckily the water was not deep and where it had gone in was a little rushing pool, I dropped my pack in the boulder and reached my hand in about elbow deep just hoping that it had stayed in that pool, after about 20 seconds of reaching about I retrieved my phone from the stream and all was in working order…whew!

The next stream crossing right before camp went effortlessly and I collected some water for dinner at camp. Unfortunately when I got to camp 5 minutes later the mosquitoes were out in full force, it was like a cloud of them. So I quickly emptied my backpack and grabbed my tent, set it up as fast as I could and started throwing everything in. I would retreat to my tent for the night and eat dinner in my tent, getting out to filter my water and to set my bear can away from my tent for the night.  I’m ahead of the group by about 10 miles but I’m camped around other hikers I know. So tomorrow will be up and over Mather Pass and hopefully the mosquitoes will stay at bay.